Maybe You're Not What You Eat

By Gina Kolata
The New York Times, February 14, 2006

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14fat_002.jpgIn an early 19th-century best seller, a famous food writer offered a cure for obesity and chronic disease: a low-carbohydrate diet.

The notion what you eat shapes your medical fate has exerted a strong pull throughout history. And its appeal continues to day, medical historians and researchers say.

"It's one of great principles — no, more principles, canons — of American culture to suggest that you eat affects your health," says James Morone, a professor of political science at Brown University.

"It's this idea you control your own destiny and that it's never too late to reinvent yourself," he said. "Vice gets punished and virtue gets rewarded. If you eat or drink or inhale wrong things you get sick. If not, you get healthy."

That very American canon, he and others say, may in part explain criticism and disbelief last week greeted a report a low-fat diet might not prevent breast cancer, colon cancer or heart disease, after all.

report, from a huge federal study called the Women's Health Initiative, raises important questions about much even the most highly motivated people can change their eating habits and whether relatively small changes they can make really have a substantial effect on health.

study, of nearly 49,000 women were randomly assigned to follow a low-fat diet or not, found the diet did not make a significant difference in development of two cancers or heart disease. But there were limitations to findings: women assigned to the low-fat diet, despite extensive and expensive counseling, never reached their goal of eating 20 percent fat in first year —only 31 percent of them got their dietary fat that low. And study did not examine the effects of different types of fat — a fact critics say is a weakness at a time doctors are advising heart patients to reduce saturated fat in the diet, not overall fats.

The researchers also found a slight suggestion low fat might make a difference in breast cancer but results were not statistically significant, meaning they may have occurred by chance.

Still study's results frustrate our primal urge to control our destinies by controlling we put in our mouths. And it comes to this urge, it is remarkable history repeats itself. Over and over again, medical experts and self-styled medical experts have insisted one diet or another can prevent disease, cure chronic illness and ensure health and longevity. And woe unto those who ignore such dietary precepts.